Take a stroll down the shady lane that is Los Rios Street, the oldest street in California Then enter the "jewel of the street" for a spot of tea, a cucumber sandwich or perhaps a big juicy prime rib with Yorkshire pudding. The Nicola family spent two years of monumental effort, taste and money completely renovating and decorating this old house. What they created is worth it all. Elegant purple wallpaper and white wainscoting create an ambiance that is a perfect backdrop for this tea room. The Tea House contains an array of lovely things from a pump organ to an antique silver Russian samovar and, naturally a vast collection of china tea cups and pots.

You may choose to dine in the "music room" off the foyer and watch the mission bells move as they ring. On the other hand the back parlor overlooks the pretty veranda. The veranda running along the length of the side is headed with a waterfall made from an antique Parisian shower and tub surrounded with kitchen herbs and edible flowers. Of course there are tables on the veranda, too. Diners are encouraged to take their time, perhaps bring a book and to linger.

The "Devon Cream" to slather on the scones has been declared by English visitors the closest to the real thing they have found outside of home. The scones were recently declared by serious diner chef/owner of L'Hirondelle, Walter Gaspar, the best he has ever tasted. If a leisure "Tea" is your choice you may wish to open with a glass of champagne (Paul Chamblain Brut $22.50 to Christal $275). I chose California Delicato Merlot. The Mission Tea is "the works" beginning with salad or a bowl of homemade soup from the full kitchen. We chose full flavored chunky vegetable and the split pea soups. These were followed by assorted finger sandwiches from crab to deviled ham. A nice touch is a bowl of fruit with containers of brown sugar and heavy cream and moist pumpkin bread. And naturally those killer scones are part of it as is the tea. Oh yes, the tea is exclusively Harney loose leaf, the same tea served by such places as the Ritz-Carlton. However, coffee drinkers are not punished.

Perhaps Island Rice Sate with peanut sauce and skewered chicken, pineapple and friend banana is more to your taste. Traditional, hearty Shepard's Pie is good comfort food. My favorite is the tangy, full flavored Bombay Chicken Curry with half a dozen condiments on the side from mango chutney to peanuts. Desserts include a well spiked English Trifle, bread pudding with brandy sauce and, for chocolate addicts, whipped cream topped house Mamboche.

- A Matter of Taste by Marquerite Duquette, Cities of the Gold Coast Costa D'Orco Magazine.